Milan: Reinventing an Old World Aesthetic

The conclusion of Milan Fashion Week yesterday finalized the dominating characteristic on the runway: An amalgamation of the truly timeless, rethought. The looks we saw cannot be ascribed to particular decades because their inspirations were not either. Rather, they spanned eras, and the new variations are modernized aesthetics transformed enough to be truly ours. The D&G suit, first below, owes thanks to the classic Chanel suit for lending one of its ribs, but its sexy, silky brassiere camisole is so 2010. Also, don't miss the Dolce & Gabbana's pants-less suits sure to offend the older generations from which they spawned. See a suit revolution from Salvatore Ferragamo, top right, with their pre-fall signature hat, a cold weather variation on the Panama style. FYI, the Salvatore Ferragamo line was a huge success so check it out here. The third and final look is a knock-out boatneck-line dress, a chic and immortal cut, from second-time showcaser Marco de Vincenzo.

   

Photos courtesy of style.com

We can't overlook the power of accessories. These cat-eye glasses from Prada and Marni, respectively, are an intelligent modernization of a priceless glamour. (We must note that aside from these specs, Marni floundered with unflattering cuts.)

   

Photos courtesy of vogue.es

Paris Fashion Week has officially gotten underway. Expect gloriousness to follow soon hereafter...

UPDATE: A Horse of a Different Neutral, Part 2

Just wanted to remind you we know what's up. Neutrals are all over New York Fashion Week. See below, in order: Cushnie et Ochs, Ohne Titel, Costello Tagliapietra, Cynthia Steffe, and Michael Angel.

Photos courtesy of New York Magazine

Photo courtesy of Style.com

Photos courtesy of Style.com

Colliding Forces

Ladylike, body-conscious, menswear, draping, military, patterns, and neutrals are all catchphrases for pre-fall 2010. While we acknowledge how important it is to focus an outfit and to avoid seeming overdone, we're still into the New York Fashion Week collections that seamlessly integrate a few of these. In particular, the best looks have fused genders not just by borrowing from the opposite sex but by engaging elements of both. For example, the exposed brassiere and underwire, as in Preen at top left, or the body-con bandages and drapes colliding with militaristic colors, as in Jeremy Laing at top right and Rag & Bone at bottom left, and gray or black suiting, as in Doo.Ri at bottom right. The Mafia Materialist especially appreciates this ladylike menswear when characterized by long sleeves, black patent lace-up or industrially embellished footwear, and metal buttons, all laced with bursts of color and prints.

Photos courtesy of style.com

Anticipating Rodarte

One must step back to examine a label that premieres on the cover of WWD and rocks New York Fashion Week with their very first collection. From 2005 onward, Rodarte boasts an assemblage of highly-regarded design awards, found its place in the permanent collections of both the Costume Institute of the Met and the F.I.T. Museum, and joined the ranks of some of the most enduring fashion houses of the twentieth century. Rodarte, the tour de force of Kate and Laura Mulleavy, will be on view at Cooper-Hewitt starting February 11 to kick off New York Fashion Week.

What is most compelling about the line is the sisters' incredible ability to communicate ideas, interests and stories on the runway. Laird Borrelli-Persson writes of the spring 2010 line, "Forced to scavenge for existence in a barren, war-torn landscape, she pieces together her attire from rags that, as Laura Mulleavy pointed out, only serve to expose her wounds." A look from the collection, below, exemplifies the couture nature of the RTW line arranged by a duo that certainly has the intensity of gaze to convince us the stories come from within their own Hitchcockesque minds, further below.

Photo courtesy of insidesocal.com/rose

Photo courtesy of target.com

According to the Cooper-Hewitt design blog, the Quicktake: Rodarte exhibit will feature the sisters' "most deconstructed and destroyed pieces." Based on the adeptly conveyed spring 2010 story told through tribal body art, gothic spikes and zippers, swirls, and color, we look forward to what story will be told for fall 2010 and beyond.

Over-the-Knee Boots?

Let's not and say we did over-the-top instead. Gladiators? We'll admit we don't miss them, but we are looking at the bright side: They left in their violent wake the ballerina version of warrior footwear. Some variation of this style from Fendi, below, wrapped up every ankle in their spring/summer 2010 show.

Photo courtesy of fendi.com

And, look what turned up in the Valentino spring 2010 couture line last week, left, and Vera Wang s/s 2010 RTW, right.

Photos courtesy of style.com and verawangweddings.com/fashion, respectively

Well, that's a wrap...almost. Okay, Mafia Materialist couldn't resist these winners from the Daniele Michetti s/s 2010, below, which share DNA with the Valentino pre-fall 2010 dress, far below, a sure sign all things wrapped up are here to stay. We think a Twelfth-Night-esque sibling reunion is in order:

Photo courtesy of michettidaniele.com

Photo courtesy of style.com

Found in Translation: Feathers and Draping

Never underestimate the power of evolution. Trends are limiting, but the evolution of fabrics from one season to the next, from one look to another, and from what works on one person to what's right for another can mean the difference between wearing what's now and wearing what's next. For example, fur is cropping up in literally every single pre-fall 2010 line. Personally, the Mafia Materialist thinks fur will come and go, but the truly forward can and will don feathers. We agreed when we saw this pre-fall look from Celine, below, inspired by Manx label Preen by Thornton Bregazzi's 2006 look, further below.

photo courtesy of style.com

photo courtesy of preen.eu

Not for you? What both permeates and transcends looks for spring/summer 2010 and fall 2010 is draping. This look is refreshingly simple and beautiful while ranging in intricacy, which the Mafia Materialist loves because it can dress up or down. See the look from Chloé, below.

photo courtesy of chloe.com

UPDATE: Women's Wear Daily did an article on feathers on January 25, 2010. We're glad to see someone's taking cues from the Mafia Materialist. See it here.